Grand National Fuel Gauge Fix – Part 1

Re-installation of the Gas Tank and Lines

As I mentioned earlier, I would not reuse the factory fuel lines at this point. They should all be cut off, and new lines installed. The hose sizes are 5/8″ (feed), 3/8″ (vent), and 1/4″ (return) (I think), and 12 inches of each should suffice, just compare them to the originals and trim as necessary. For the feed line, use the double-hose clamps on either end, making sure there’s one a double clamp on either end (or two clamps if the originals can’t be reused).

If you ordered the Racetronix assembly with the quick-release fittings, put the clamp on the hose, then insert the fitting into the hose COMPLETELY, and move and tighten the clamps down. Racetronix didn’t include instructions here, but you need to unscrew the back piece off the quick release, slide the fitting onto the tube of the sender completely, then fit and screw on the back piece again, so that it locks the fitting to the flange on the tube. Use a pair of wrenches to make sure they’re tight. (Frankly I think if I were to do it again, I’d skip the quick release fittings for a stock car, but it’s up to you!)

With the new lines on, it’s time to slide the tank back under the car, reconnect them to the metal lines, and re-install the tank. I recommend using the silicone lube to lube the metal lines before installing the hoses, as that’ll really help slide the hoses completely on before clamping them down.

As far as re-installation, I wish I had some better advice, but having an extra pair of hands or two REALLY helps with this. I was able to get the tank in place, prop it up on a piece of 2×4, then slide the plywood and jack back underneath, then carefully/slowly raise the tank back into place, while making sure the lines didn’t get pinched, and that everything else cleared the car, exhaust, and straps. Once the tank was jacked up against the bottom of the car I re-fitted the straps, started both bolts by hand, then tightened them up.

Last but not least, plug the plug in (you DO need a Racetronix hot-wire kit for the Racetronix sender), and head up front to button things up.

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