Well my new HnR PartsnStuff motor mounts are in. Not a fun job but got them in over the course of a few hours. As you can see - attacking the passenger side mount was a little easier by using multiple extensions. Had a planned ahead I would have put the passenger side up on a jackstand and removed the wheel.

Another tip I can offer is to have one of those telescoping magnets they sell in the check out aisles of Pep Boys or Harbor Freight. These things are great for keep the bolts from falling into bolt hell otherwise known as the front crossmember.

In review of the H&R mounts - fitment was great, the holes lined up perfectly, and while there is a slight vibration in the car now, its only at idle and honestly makes it a little more exciting to drive! If I had a second Turbo Buick I would have no problem buying another set.

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Well it seems it just wouldn't be right if I wasn't back under a Buick changing engine mounts again. This time its the GN's turn - the driver side engine mount came apart. I guess it lasted ok, being oh, 23 years old.

 So what does a bad engine mount look like? Well engine mounts are generally a block of rubber sandwhiched between two metal plates. Usually you'll see a crack/rip/tear/etc in the rubber, or if oil leaked onto it - the rubber may be mushy and melted looking.

 That said, here's whats really happening when your engine mount is no longer holding the engine in place.

While the mount looks fine just sitting there, you can clearly see the engine lift off the rubber when it flexes. Note that this was done in a driveway and the camera was left underneath the car - nobody should ever be under a car while it's running.

New Polyurethane motor mounts from RJC Racing are on their way! Not cheap though, but at this point, not much more than GM replacements.

Note: Regarding replacement mounts - why wouldn't I just go to Autozone or Pep Boys and buy the $10 ones? On my old car, which was a wimpy NA Regal, I went through 8 mounts before just buying the GM ones. The GM ones last way much better, but unfortunately at this point are an old part and cost nearly $200 for a replacement set from GM Parts Direct, more than $250 from a dealer!